NACE 13.1 – Preparation and Spinning of Textile Fibres | Public Tenders

Definition: NACE 13.1 covers the preparation of natural fibres (cotton, wool, flax) and man-made fibres as well as their processing into yarns and threads. This intermediate group forms the basis of the textile supply chain and is relevant for the public procurement of uniform textiles and technical fabrics.

Legal basis: NACE Rev. 2 (Regulation (EC) No 1893/2006) · Last updated: January 2026

What does NACE 13.1 cover?

NACE 13.1 (Preparation and spinning of textile fibres) classifies businesses that process textile raw materials into yarns — an industrial primary stage with an indirect but significant role in public textile procurement.

Group 13.1 within Section C (Manufacturing) and Division 13 (Manufacture of textiles) is structured into three classes:

Public contracting authorities engage with NACE 13.1 primarily as buyers of intermediate products for downstream textile processing. The Bundeswehr (German armed forces), Federal Police and civil-protection authorities procure uniform fabrics under framework agreements which are based on yarns from this NACE group.

Public tenders: scope of NACE 13.1

Yarns and spun textile products are sought in public tenders primarily as intermediates for uniform textiles, protective clothing and technical textiles — typically as part of multi-stage procurement chains.

Typical contract types

• Yarn supplies to Bundeswehr textile manufacturers: Bundeswehr framework agreements with textile manufacturers, who in turn procure yarns to military specifications (e.g. FR properties, camouflage colours)
• Technical yarns for public infrastructure: High-strength yarns for safety nets, protective equipment in public construction projects
• Yarns for hospital and care textiles: Procurement by municipal hospital operators and laundries
• Research contracts and standardisation activities: The Federal Institute for Materials Research and Testing (BAM) tenders testing services and reference materials

Thresholds and procedure types

Direct tenders for yarns and fibres are usually below the EU thresholds for supply contracts (EUR 221,000 for federal authorities). For framework agreements covering Bundeswehr textile supply, aggregate volumes can exceed the EU threshold and must then be published on TED.

Relevant CPV codes for NACE 13.1

The link between NACE 13.1 and the tender market runs through specific CPV codes covering yarns, fibres and textile intermediates.

Current tenders with these CPV codes are published on TED (Tenders Electronic Daily) and on national procurement platforms.

For whom is NACE 13.1 relevant under procurement law?

Public contracting authorities

The Federal Office of Bundeswehr Equipment, Information Technology and In-Service Support (BAAINBw) is the most significant public contracting authority linked to NACE 13.1 — both directly for yarn supplies and indirectly through engaging apparel manufacturers who use yarns to military standards. Federal bodies such as the Federal Agency for Technical Relief (THW), state fire services and municipal hospital operators are further relevant authorities. In Austria, the Army Logistics Centre coordinates textile procurement for the Bundesheer.

Companies and bidders

Spinning mills and yarn manufacturers seeking public contracts should consider the following:

• Technical specifications: Military and governmental requirements for yarn strength, flame retardancy (EN ISO 11612), colour fastness and wear comfort
• Certifications: OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is a frequently requested certificate; ISO 9001 quality management; EMAS environmental management system where applicable
• Supply-chain evidence: Tenders increasingly require evidence of sustainable raw-material sourcing (e.g. GOTS, Better Cotton)
• Capacity proof: Reliable annual capacities and just-in-time delivery capability under framework agreements

NACE 13.1 in context: Section C and Division 13

NACE 13.1 is the first group within textile-manufacturing Division 13 — it forms the industrial upstream stage for all subsequent textile groups.

• NACE C – Manufacturing: Parent section
• NACE 13 – Manufacture of textiles: Parent division
• NACE 13.2 – Weaving of textiles: Downstream processing stage
• NACE 13.3 – Finishing of textiles: Further processing stage
• NACE 14.1 – Manufacture of wearing apparel: Most important buyer in the public procurement chain

Frequently asked questions about NACE 13.1 and public tenders

Are yarns tendered directly by public bodies?
Direct yarn procurement by public contracting authorities is rare. More frequently, procurement runs through engaged textile industry, which purchases yarns as intermediates. Specialised authorities such as defence-technology offices or research institutions may, however, tender yarn supplies directly.

Which standards apply to Bundeswehr textile tenders?
Military textiles are subject to extensive Technical Supply Conditions (TL) of the Federal Office of Bundeswehr Equipment, Information Technology and In-Service Support (BAAINBw). Relevant standards include EN ISO 11611 (protective clothing for welding), EN ISO 11612 (protection against heat and flame) and NATO Standardization Agreements (STANAG).

How can I find subcontractor opportunities in NACE 13.1?
Spinning businesses can participate indirectly in public contracts via bidding consortia or as subcontractors of textile manufacturers. Relevant industry associations such as textil+mode (the Confederation of the German Textile and Fashion Industry) report on tender trends.

Does sustainability play a role in textile tenders?
Yes, increasingly. The German National Action Plan for Business and Human Rights and the German Supply Chain Due Diligence Act (LkSG) require public contracting authorities to include social and environmental criteria in textile procurement. EU GPP (Green Public Procurement) criteria are to be used as guidance.

Last updated: January 2026
All information provided without warranty. For legally binding advice, please consult a law firm specialising in public procurement law.