NACE 13.2 – Weaving of Textiles | Public Tenders

Definition: NACE 13.2 covers the manufacture of woven fabrics and cloth from natural and man-made fibres — from simple cotton fabrics to technical high-performance fabrics. This group is particularly relevant for the procurement of workwear fabrics for public authorities and public undertakings.

Legal basis: NACE Rev. 2 (Regulation (EC) No 1893/2006) · Last updated: January 2026

What does NACE 13.2 cover?

NACE 13.2 (Weaving of textiles) classifies businesses that produce flat textile fabrics from yarns — a core area of the textile supply chain with direct relevance for the public procurement of workwear and protective textiles.

Group 13.2 within Section C (Manufacturing) and Division 13 (Manufacture of textiles) is structured into three classes:

Public contracting authorities procure woven products both directly (for in-house make-up or sample development) and indirectly via apparel manufacturers using fabrics as intermediates. The military, police forces and fire services are the highest-volume public buyers.

Public tenders: scope of NACE 13.2

Fabrics and woven goods are sought in public procurement as intermediates for uniforms, workwear, household textiles in public institutions and technical applications.

Typical contract types

• Uniform fabrics for police and Bundeswehr: Cloth for service uniforms, camouflage-pattern fabrics (Flecktarn), flame-retardant fabrics to STANAG standards
• Workwear fabrics for fire services: High-performance fabrics to EN ISO 11612, two-layer protective fabrics for fire-protection clothing
• Bed linen and hospital fabrics: Heavy-duty fabrics for hospital laundries, public-transport seat covers, institutional clothing
• Technical fabrics for infrastructure projects: Geotextiles, filter materials for civil-engineering projects (with some overlap to NACE 13.9)
• Flags and representational textiles: State flags, official decorations, representational textiles for embassies

Thresholds and procedure types

Fabrics and woven goods are usually awarded as supply contracts. EU thresholds for supply contracts (from EUR 221,000 for upper federal authorities) are regularly exceeded by larger framework agreements, e.g. for nationwide uniform supply. Open or restricted EU-wide procedures then apply.

Relevant CPV codes for NACE 13.2

CPV codes for fabrics and woven goods are located in the main group 19 (Leather and textile fabrics) and cover the full range of weaving products.

Current tenders with these CPV codes are published on TED (Tenders Electronic Daily) and on national procurement platforms.

For whom is NACE 13.2 relevant under procurement law?

Public contracting authorities

The Federal Office of Bundeswehr Equipment, Information Technology and In-Service Support (BAAINBw) and the Central Procurement of the Federal Police are the largest buyers of uniform fabrics in Germany. At state level, state police forces and fire-service associations procure workwear fabrics, often through state-owned central purchasers. Publicly owned hospitals and municipal laundries regularly tender bed-linen and care-textile fabrics. In Austria, the Army Logistics Centre Vienna coordinates fabric procurement for the Bundesheer.

Companies and bidders

Weaving businesses entering the public market must typically meet the following requirements:

• Technical specifications: Compliance with military Technical Supply Conditions (TL) and EN standards for protective clothing
• Colour fastness and washability evidence: Test reports to ISO 105 for colour stability under operational conditions
• Certifications: ISO 9001, plus OEKO-TEX or Bluesign for sustainable production where required
• Supply reliability: Evidence of sufficient production capacities and inventory for framework-agreement call-offs
• References: Comparable supplies to public or institutional customers

NACE 13.2 in context: Section C and Division 13

NACE 13.2 is the second group of textile-manufacturing Division 13 — it processes yarns from NACE 13.1 into fabrics, which are then finished under NACE 13.3 and made up into apparel under NACE 14.1.

• NACE C – Manufacturing: Parent section
• NACE 13 – Manufacture of textiles: Parent division
• NACE 13.1 – Preparation and spinning of textile fibres: Upstream stage
• NACE 13.3 – Finishing of textiles: Downstream finishing stage
• NACE 14.1 – Manufacture of wearing apparel: Main buyer group in the public context

Frequently asked questions about NACE 13.2 and public tenders

Do public authorities tender fabrics directly, or only finished garments?
Both occur. Larger authorities such as the Bundeswehr sometimes award fabric supplies for their own tailoring operations or as intermediates for contracted manufacturers. Most demand, however, flows indirectly via apparel manufacturers who source fabrics from weavers.

What requirements does the Bundeswehr place on uniform fabrics?
Bundeswehr uniform fabrics must satisfy extensive technical supply conditions of BAAINBw, including specific thread densities, fabric weights, flame-retardant values, camouflage-pattern accuracy and colour fastness. The relevant TL documents are accessible via the tender documents.

Are there sustainability-related requirements for fabric procurement?
Increasingly, yes. The German Environment Agency recommends GPP criteria for textile procurement, covering absence of harmful substances (OEKO-TEX), sustainable cotton origin (Better Cotton, Fairtrade) and fair working conditions. The Supply Chain Due Diligence Act (LkSG) indirectly obliges larger public contracting authorities to perform risk reviews along the supply chain.

Can small weaving mills participate in public tenders?
Yes, through bidding consortia or as subcontractors. The division into lots under section 97(4) GWB is intended to promote SME participation. Smaller weavers can focus on regional procurement or specialty products.

Last updated: January 2026
All information provided without warranty. For legally binding advice, please consult a law firm specialising in public procurement law.