NACE 13.3 – Finishing of Textiles and Apparel | Public Tenders

Definition: NACE 13.3 covers the finishing of textiles and wearing apparel through processes such as bleaching, dyeing, printing, finishing, impregnation and similar treatment methods. This group predominantly provides commission finishing services to other textile businesses but also acts as a direct service provider to public contracting authorities.

Legal basis: NACE Rev. 2 (Regulation (EC) No 1893/2006) · Last updated: January 2026

What does NACE 13.3 cover?

NACE 13.3 (Finishing of textiles and apparel) classifies businesses that functionalise and enhance textile flat goods and apparel through chemical and mechanical processes — a specialised service stage with relevance for public protective-clothing procurement.

Group 13.3 within Section C (Manufacturing) and Division 13 (Manufacture of textiles) contains one class:

Finishing businesses typically operate as commission service providers for weaving mills, apparel manufacturers and outfitters of protective textiles. Public contracting authorities are relevant where textiles must be specifically finished to official requirements — for example flame-retardant, water-repellent or infrared-reflective.

Public tenders: scope of NACE 13.3

Textile-finishing services frequently appear in public tenders as part of supply contracts for protective clothing and workwear, or as standalone service contracts for the refurbishment of public textile inventories.

Typical contract types

• Flame-retardant finishing of operational textiles: Chemical finishing of uniform and protective fabrics to EN ISO 11612 for fire services, THW and the Bundeswehr
• Water-repellent impregnation: Finishing of outdoor clothing, tents and tarpaulins for civil protection and Bundeswehr applications
• Special printing of service apparel: Printing of identification elements, reflective stripes and official emblems
• Refurbishment and cleaning of protective textiles: Reconditioning of firefighter protective suits and personal protective equipment (PPE) after deployment
• Dyeing contracts for institutional clothing: Dyeing of clothing for correctional facilities to internal colour specifications

Thresholds and procedure types

Textile-finishing contracts are generally classified as service contracts. The EU threshold for service contracts is EUR 221,000 (upper federal authorities) or EUR 431,000 (utilities contracting authorities, as of 2024/2025). Many finishing contracts fall below these thresholds owing to limited volume and are awarded nationally.

Relevant CPV codes for NACE 13.3

Textile-finishing services are captured under CPV codes for textile processing and treatment; specific finishing services may also fall under protective-equipment CPVs.

Current tenders with these CPV codes are published on TED (Tenders Electronic Daily) and on national procurement platforms.

For whom is NACE 13.3 relevant under procurement law?

Public contracting authorities

Public contracting authorities relevant to NACE 13.3 include in particular fire services and civil-protection authorities, which regularly have protective clothing reconditioned or re-finished after deployment. The Federal Agency for Technical Relief (THW) and the Bundeswehr award contracts for finishing and refurbishment of technical textiles. Municipal laundries and hospitals tender textile-refurbishment services. State authorities for justice and corrections commission finishing services for institutional textiles.

Companies and bidders

Textile-finishing businesses must typically demonstrate the following for public contracts:

• Technical capability: Certified test reports on finishing effectiveness (e.g. flame-retardant evidence to EN ISO 11612)
• Environmental compliance: REACH-compliant chemical use, plus Bluesign or GOTS certification where required
• Processing capacity: Machine availability and throughput volumes for framework-agreement volumes
• Quality assurance: ISO 9001 quality management system; in-house laboratories or external test partners
• References: Documented finishing projects for public or comparable institutional clients

NACE 13.3 in context: Section C and Division 13

As the finishing stage, NACE 13.3 sits between fabric manufacture (NACE 13.2) and apparel manufacture (NACE 14.1) — it functionalises textile intermediates for the specific application.

• NACE C – Manufacturing: Parent section
• NACE 13 – Manufacture of textiles: Parent division
• NACE 13.2 – Weaving of textiles: Upstream fabric manufacture
• NACE 13.9 – Manufacture of other textiles: Parallel group for technical textiles
• NACE 14.1 – Manufacture of wearing apparel: Main buyer of finished textiles

Frequently asked questions about NACE 13.3 and public tenders

Is textile finishing a service or a supply contract under procurement law?
Pure finishing services (commission dyeing, commission impregnation) are service contracts. Where finished textiles are delivered as finished goods, the contract is a supply contract. The classification influences the applicable threshold and procedural rules.

What environmental requirements apply to the procurement of finishing services?
Public contracting authorities can and should require environmentally friendly finishing processes in line with EU GPP criteria. Relevant points include the ban on certain azo dyes (REACH), the use of REACH-compliant auxiliaries and evidence of wastewater-compliant disposal of process chemicals.

Are textile-finishing services tendered EU-wide?
Only in larger framework agreements that exceed the EU threshold. Typically these are national or regional tenders. National framework agreements of the Bundeswehr or Federal Police can, however, require EU-wide tendering.

How can a small finishing business participate in Bundeswehr contracts?
Small specialists can participate in Bundeswehr procurement as subcontractors or as part of a bidding consortium with a make-up main contractor. Direct bids for specialised finishing services are also possible provided the technical requirements are met.

Last updated: January 2026
All information provided without warranty. For legally binding advice, please consult a law firm specialising in public procurement law.